The word folliculitis means “inflammation of the hair follicles.”

Most dogs and cats have millions of hair follicles across their body. These hair follicles are found within the skin, and they occur anywhere that you see hair growing on your pet. Each hair follicle serves as the source of multiple hairs, responsible for creating the thick coat that we typically associate with our canine and feline companions.

Folliculitis refers to inflammation of these hair follicles. There are many potential causes of folliculitis, and folliculitis can take on a variety of clinical appearances.

What causes folliculitis?

Most cases of folliculitis are associated with a bacterial infection. Like humans, dogs and cats normally have bacteria, including Staphylococci (“staph”), on the surface of their skin. In a healthy dog or cat, the skin’s barrier function serves to keep these bacteria in check, preventing them from entering the skin’s structures, proliferating unchecked, and causing an infection. In some cases, however, these bacteria can invade the hair follicle and create an infection of the follicle. This infection leads to folliculitis.

Bacterial folliculitis can occur in any pet, when the conditions are right. However, it is often associated with underlying allergies. Skin allergies disrupt the skin’s barrier function, making the pet more susceptible to bacterial skin infections.

Not all cases of folliculitis are caused by skin infections or allergies. Other possible causes of folliculitis include:

• Fungal infection (e.g., ringworm)
• Parasites (e.g., demodex mites)
• Skin irritation/trauma (e.g., clipper trauma due to grooming, lick granuloma)
• Hypothyroidism
• Cushing’s disease

Diagnostic testing is typically required to determine the cause of folliculitis.

What are the symptoms of folliculitis in dogs and cats?

The most common symptoms of folliculitis are itching, redness of the skin, hair loss, and swelling. Unfortunately, these signs are common to a wide variety of skin conditions. Therefore, folliculitis can be difficult to differentiate from other skin diseases.

On closer examination, folliculitis may also show the following characteristics:

• Hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin)
• Pustules (pus-filled bumps)
• Papules (bumps without pus)
• Epidermal collarettes (circular areas of hair loss and peeling skin)
• Abrasions and erosions (damage to the surface of the skin)

Does folliculitis require veterinary care?

Obtaining an accurate diagnosis of folliculitis, and identifying its underlying cause, requires a veterinary exam. Your veterinarian will begin by performing a thorough physical exam of your pet. This exam will include an emphasis on the skin, looking carefully at the skin in affected and unaffected areas. Your veterinarian will also examine the rest of your pet’s body, looking for evidence of systemic disease that may make your pet more susceptible to folliculitis.

Next, your veterinarian will likely recommend diagnostic tests. These tests are used to definitively diagnose folliculitis as the cause of your pet’s skin condition. Additionally, diagnostic tests can aid in determining the underlying cause of your pet’s folliculitis.

Recommended tests may include:

• Skin cytology, to examine skin cells under a microscope
• Skin scraping, to test for skin mites
• Fungal culture, to diagnose ringworm infection
• Skin culture and sensitivity, to diagnose bacterial infection and determine the best treatment  
• Skin biopsy, to look for underlying skin disease
• Blood tests, to look for hormonal diseases like hypothyroidism and Cushing’s disease
• Allergy testing, to determine the underlying cause of allergic skin disease
• Food trial, to diagnose food allergies

Your veterinarian will make testing recommendations based on their physical exam findings. Exam findings can help suggest likely causes of a pet’s folliculitis, allowing the veterinarian to choose the most appropriate diagnostic tests for the patient.

How is folliculitis treated?

Folliculitis treatment will depend on the underlying cause of your pet’s condition.

As stated earlier, most folliculitis is caused by a bacterial infection. If your dog or cat’s folliculitis is caused by a bacterial infection, your veterinarian will likely prescribe an oral antibiotic. This may be accompanied by a topical antibacterial shampoo, spray, or ointment. Your veterinarian may also prescribe medication to alleviate your pet’s itching and inflammation.

Pets with underlying skin allergies may also need treatment to address their allergies. In the case of a pet with flea allergies, for example, your veterinarian may recommend effective monthly parasite prevention. Food allergies are often treated with a prescription diet, which can reduce skin inflammation and associated folliculitis flare-ups. Finally, some pets are allergic to inhaled allergens in their environment. Treatment of inhalant allergies may involve the use of medications (oral or injectable) or hyposensitization treatment (using allergy injections or sublingual allergen dosing). Your veterinarian will work with you to determine the best treatment for your pet’s allergies.

If your pet’s folliculitis is caused by mites, fungal infection, hormonal disease, or other cause, your veterinarian will work with you to determine the most effective treatment option for the underlying cause of your pet’s condition.

Your pet’s prognosis will depend on the underlying cause of their folliculitis. In some cases, folliculitis is an isolated, one-time occurrence that is easily addressed with treatment. In other cases, ongoing treatment may be needed and your pet’s response to treatment may vary.

Can I prevent folliculitis in my pet?

There is no guaranteed way to prevent folliculitis in pets. However, there are a few steps you can take to reduce the risk:

• Treat skin allergies proactively. Unmanaged allergies are a leading contributor to folliculitis. Work with your veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist to develop an allergy management plan for your pet, keeping in mind that allergy management is a long-term process.
• Use a veterinary-recommended parasite preventive, to prevent fleas and other parasites that may cause folliculitis.
• Do your research when selecting a groomer. Clipper-associated trauma and poor sanitation can contribute to skin infections and folliculitis.
• Keep hormonal disease, like hypothyroidism and Cushing’s disease, well-controlled. Folliculitis can occur when hormonal diseases are poorly regulated.
• Seek veterinary care if you notice any signs of skin disease, such as itching or hair loss. Diagnosing and treating skin disease early can reduce the likelihood of progression to folliculitis.

If you have any concerns about your pet’s skin, contact your veterinarian.

The post Folliculitis in Dogs and Cats appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

What should you do if you suspect there is blood in your cat’s urine? Read on to learn more.

Can you see blood in a cat’s urine?

Normal cat urine varies from pale yellow to dark yellow or orange in color. The color of your cat’s urine will depend on their water intake, their kidney function, and other factors.

If your cat’s urine takes on a red color, this suggests that there may be blood in the urine. Bloody urine, or hematuria, is caused by bleeding in the urinary tract. There are multiple causes of hematuria; some of these conditions are mild, while others are severe.

Blood in the urine isn’t always visible to the naked eye. Mild hematuria can only be detected by veterinary testing. However, even mild hematuria may be accompanied by clinical signs of urinary tract disease. Affected cats may strain to urinate, spend more time in the litterbox, or urinate outside of the litterbox. Any of these signs can suggest urinary tract disease, and cats with urinary tract disease are more likely to have hematuria.

How do veterinarians detect blood in the urine?

Small amounts of blood in the urine may not cause an obvious color change. Veterinarians detect mild hematuria by performing a urinalysis (urine analysis).

There are two components of a urinalysis that detect blood in the urine:

• Urine biochemical analysis: This test uses a chemical test strip to screen for various substances in your cat’s urine, including blood.
• Microscopic sediment exam: In this test, a member of the veterinary team will spin a sample of your cat’s urine at high speed in a centrifuge. Cells or debris in your cat’s urine will fall to the bottom of the sample as a concentrated pellet. This pellet is examined under a microscope. If there are red blood cells in the pellet, the cat is diagnosed with hematuria.

What causes blood in the urine?

There are multiple causes of hematuria in cats, including:  

• Urinary stones: Minerals in the urine can collect into microscopic crystals, which come together to form larger stones. These stones usually form in the bladder, although kidney stones can also occur. Urinary stones rub against tissue, causing trauma and hematuria.
• Bacterial infection: Urinary tract infections cause significant inflammation within the bladder and urinary tract. This can lead to hematuria.
• Bladder tumor: Bleeding tumors in the urinary tract are an uncommon cause of hematuria. This condition is rare, affecting approximately  1 in 1,000 cats.
• Feline idiopathic cystitis (FIC): This condition refers to bladder inflammation with no identifiable cause. Affected cats have clinical signs of urinary tract disease (straining, urinating outside the litterbox, hematuria etc.), but no underlying cause can be found.

How will my veterinarian diagnose the cause of my cat’s hematuria?

Your veterinarian may perform multiple tests to figure out what is causing blood in your cat’s urine.

After confirming the presence of hematuria using a urinalysis, further testing may include:

• Blood tests: Although blood tests are not specific for any of the causes of hematuria, they give your veterinarian a good picture of your cat’s overall health. Blood tests also help your veterinarian evaluate your cat’s kidney function.
• Urine culture and sensitivity: This is the most accurate way to diagnose urinary tract infections in cats.
• X-rays: Many feline bladder stones are visible with x-ray imaging.  
• Ultrasound: This test provides a closer look at the inside of the bladder. It is not recommended for every cat, but it may be used to rule out bladder stones and tumors in high-risk cats.

How will my veterinarian treat blood in the urine?

Treatment will depend on the underlying cause of your cat’s hematuria. An accurate diagnosis is essential so your veterinarian can create an appropriate treatment plan.

The most common cause of hematuria in cats is FIC. Your veterinarian will diagnose FIC after ruling out other potential causes of your cat’s hematuria. Episodes of FIC may resolve on their own within a week or two; if that happens, no treatment is needed. If signs of FIC persist or recur, though, treatment often focuses on urine dilution and stress reduction. First, your veterinarian may recommend increasing your cat’s water intake, using canned food or a running water fountain. Your veterinarian may also prescribe medications and/or prescription diets to aid in managing your cat’s clinical signs. Finally, you will need to focus on reducing potential stressors for your cat.

Stress-reduction measures for cats with FIC may include:

• Address inter-cat conflict (in multi-cat homes)
• Increase play/activity
• Keep routines predictable
• Increase access to perches, scratching posts, and resting places
• Keep litterboxes clean and easily accessible
• Allow limited, controlled outdoor access using a screened porch, “catio,” or leash walks
• Use calming pheromones, such as Feliway®

The treatment of bladder stones varies depending on the type of stone present. Some bladder stones dissolve with a prescription diet. If your cat’s stones are dissolvable, your veterinarian will prescribe a suitable diet and recommend regular x-rays for monitoring. If your cat’s bladder stones can’t be dissolved with diet, surgery is often recommended. This surgery, called a cystotomy, involves surgically opening the bladder to remove the stones.

Although urinary tract infections (UTIs) are not common in cats, they can occur. They are more likely in older cats and in cats with underlying medical conditions (such as diabetes or kidney disease). Treatment requires antibiotics, which must be given as directed. Stopping antibiotics too early can increase the risk of antibiotic resistance.

Bladder tumors are rare in cats, fortunately. However, they can occur. These tumors are typically treated with anti-inflammatory drugs and/or chemotherapy. Less commonly, surgery and/or radiation may be recommended for cats with bladder tumors.

Summary

Hematuria, or blood in the urine, can be detected by cat owners or by veterinarians. There are multiple causes of hematuria, each of which requires a unique approach to treatment. If you see signs of blood in your cat’s urine, schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible. Your veterinarian can figure out an accurate diagnosis and then recommend the best treatment for your cat.

The post Blood in Your Cat’s Urine: What’s Going On? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

First, Evaluate the Rescue Organization

Whether you’re obtaining a pet from a county animal shelter or a small, private rescue group, it’s important to carefully evaluate the organization and their facility.

As you tour the facility, look around carefully and talk to individuals who are working there. Consider the following questions:

• Is the facility clean?
• Do the animals appear to be well-cared for?
• Do the staff/volunteers interact with the pets in a positive way?
• Does the facility conduct some sort of screening or interview before adopting out their pets, to help increase the chances of a good match?

Ensure that the facility provides appropriate veterinary care for their pets. All rescue pets should receive a veterinary exam, deworming, vaccinations, diagnostic testing, and treatment for any medical conditions that may be apparent. All of this information should be documented in each pet’s medical record; these records should be given to new owners at the time of adoption. A lack of veterinary care or vague medical records can be a red flag, suggesting that your prospective pet’s medical needs have not been met.

Next, Evaluate a Specific Pet

While some diseases require complex veterinary diagnostics to discover, a brief once-over can go a long way in helping you select a healthy dog or cat for adoption.

When you find a pet that piques your interest, spend some time interacting with them and observing them closely. Make note of the following:

• Is the pet at a healthy weight? Ribs should not be visible from a distance.
• Is the pet curious and willing to interact with strangers?
• Does the pet eat readily when offered treats? (Do not offer any treats without asking the permission of the shelter or rescue group.)
• Can the pet see and hear normally?
• Does the pet move around its environment comfortably, without any signs of limping or stiffness?
• Is the pet active and able to play without excessive signs of fatigue?

Once you and the pet have become comfortable with each other, you are ready to do a more hands-on examination. Look over the pet carefully, working your way from nose to tail:

• Teeth: Are the teeth relatively clean? Are the gums a healthy pink color?
• Eyes: Are the eyes clear and free of discharge?
• Ears: Are the ears clean and free of discharge?
• Coat: Does the pet have a healthy, unmatted coat that is free of parasites?
• Skin: Is the skin free of visible inflammation and tumors?

If you make it through this examination without noticing any problems (more on those below!) there is a relatively good chance that your prospective pet is free of major health problems.

Potential Red Flags

As you examine your prospective pet, keep an eye out for these potential red flags:

• Severe dental tartar or bad breath
• Red/inflamed gums
• Pale gums
• Blindness
• Cloudy or inflamed eyes
• Deafness
• Heavy or stinky discharge within the ears
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Lack of appetite
• Hair loss or dull coat
• Fleas or visible “flea dirt” (flea feces) in the coat
• Red or itchy skin
• Skin tumors
• Limping
• Pain when touched
• Poor body condition (overweight, underweight)
• Lethargy (low energy)

Observing any of these red flags suggests that your prospective pet may have an underlying health problem. While some medical problems can be easily treated, others are far more complex to address. And, contagious medical conditions may be transmissible to you and to other pets in your home. Adopting a healthy pet is the best way to minimize the risk of immediate veterinary expenses or a potential serious medical condition.

After Adoption, Schedule a Veterinary Exam ASAP!

Even if your pet appears completely health, a thorough veterinary examination should be your first priority for your newly-adopted pet.  

In addition to a physical examination, your veterinarian will recommend appropriate diagnostic testing for your new pet. Depending on your pet’s species and age, these tests may include fecal parasite testing, heartworm testing, and feline leukemia/feline immunodeficiency virus testing.

A prompt veterinary exam is essential for several reasons. First, many medical conditions are easily treatable. Early treatment allows your new pet to feel better quickly and can reduce the risk of disease transmission to your human and four-legged family members. Additionally, a prompt veterinary exam will provide you with valuable information regarding your pet’s health status. If your new pet has a condition that you will be unable to care for, you may be able to return them to the rescue group before making a tremendous emotional and financial investment. Giving up a newly-adopted pet is never easy, but this decision only becomes more difficult as time elapses.

Your veterinarian can also serve as an excellent resource for information on nutrition, training, socialization, and other aspects of pet ownership.

Summary

Don’t get distracted by an adorable set of puppy-dog eyes or sweet kitten purrs! Instead, remain level-headed when adopting a new pet.

Conduct an honest appraisal of both the rescue organization and the specific pet in which you’re interested. Careful observation and brief hands-on inspection can increase the likelihood of adopting a healthy pet that will enjoy a long, happy life with your family.

The post How Do I Know if a Pet is Healthy Before Adopting? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

This small, elevated claw is called a dewclaw.

The structure of a dog or cat paw is similar to a human hand, and a dewclaw is the canine or feline equivalent of a human thumbnail. The dewclaw and its associated first digit look different from the other toes because the first digit (or thumb) is shorter than the other digits and not used for weight bearing. In fact, some dogs completely lack dewclaws, especially on their rear paws.  

Are Dewclaws Normal in Dogs?

Most dogs are born with dewclaws on their front feet. These front dewclaws contain the same bony structures as the human thumb, and they play an important role in stability when a dog is running, making a high-speed turn, or climbing. Front dewclaws also help a dog hold chew toys or other objects between their front paws.

Rear dewclaws, however, are less common in dogs. Some breeds, such as the Pyrenees and Saint Bernard, almost always have rear dewclaws. In other breeds, rear dewclaws are uncommon. When rear dewclaws are present, they may lack the bony attachment seen in front dewclaws and be attached only by a flap of skin or a small tendon.

Dewclaw Removal in Dogs: Pros and Cons

Dewclaws, especially when connected only by a small flap of skin, may be more prone to injury than other digits. Additionally, because these claws do not reach the ground, they often grow more quickly than your dog’s other claws and are more likely to become overgrown or ingrown. For this reason, some breeders and pet owners prefer to have a dog’s dewclaws surgically removed.

Breeders may have dewclaws removed by a veterinarian at a very early age. If your purebred dog does not have front dewclaws, they were likely surgically removed. Dewclaw removal is typically performed in the first few days of life.

If your older puppy or adult dog has dewclaws, you may wonder whether you should have them removed. There’s no single right or wrong answer to this question, and the best answer depends upon your unique situation.

Detached dewclaws (dewclaws without a bony attachment) may be especially prone to injury, especially in a dog that is running through heavy brush or undergrowth. Additionally, these detached dewclaws can usually be removed relatively easily. Your dog will need to go under anesthesia for the procedure, but this can easily be combined with spay/neuter surgery or another anesthetic episode. Therefore, it’s not unreasonable to consider removing your dog’s detached dewclaws, especially if your dog is likely to have a very active lifestyle. Removal of a detached dewclaw certainly isn’t necessary, but it may reduce the risk of future injury.

In the case of dewclaws with a bony attachment, however, surgical removal comes with a greater risk of side effects. This surgery is comparable to amputating a person’s thumb, meaning that it’s an aggressive surgery with limited benefits. This procedure is more painful than the removal of a detached dewclaw, and it is accompanied by a greater risk of post-surgical complications. For this reason, most veterinarians recommend against removing attached dewclaws.

If you have questions about dewclaw removal, talk to your veterinarian. They can help you evaluate your pet’s specific risk factors and the potential benefits of dewclaw removal.

Do Cats Have Dewclaws?

Cats typically have dewclaws on all four paws. They use their dewclaws extensively, especially when climbing.

A cat’s dewclaws should never be removed because they play an important role in their ability to engage in normal feline activities.

Caring for Your Pet’s Dewclaws

While dewclaws are structurally identical to your pet’s other claws, they don’t typically contact the ground when your pet walks. The lack of friction to wear them down tends to mean that dewclaws may grow faster than your pet’s other claws.

While all pets should receive regular nail trims approximately once monthly, it’s a good idea to check your pet’s dewclaws a bit more frequently. Overgrown dewclaws are at a higher risk of snagging on grass, carpet, or a rug. They can also become so overgrown that they curl and grow into your pet’s skin. By regularly checking and trimming your pet’s dewclaws, you can prevent problems associated with dewclaw overgrowth.

Identifying Dewclaw Problems

Ingrown dewclaws and torn dewclaws can serve as a significant source of discomfort for affected pets. Common signs of these conditions include limping, licking at the affected paw, and visible saliva staining.

An ingrown dewclaw is easy to identify if your pet will allow you to examine the area. Your pet’s nail will be grown into a spiral shape, with the point embedded in your pet’s skin or paw pad. If your pet has an ingrown dewclaw, it’s time to seek veterinary attention. Your veterinarian will trim the affected claw and remove any remaining fragments from your pet’s skin. In most cases, your veterinarian will also prescribe pain medication and antibiotics.

A torn dewclaw can occur if your pet’s toenail becomes caught on something, such as plants, carpet, or bedding. The claw may be broken along its length, or the entire claw may detach from the nail bed. A torn toenail often causes bleeding during its early stages, but this bleeding may resolve relatively quickly. Even if it’s not bleeding, however, a torn toenail is painful and requires veterinary care. Your veterinarian will trim the nail (to minimize discomfort) and prescribe pain medication and antibiotics. They may also apply a bandage to your dog’s paw and/or recommend an e-collar (cone) to prevent your dog from licking the paw and causing further inflammation.

Summary

Dewclaws serve important functions, especially in cats and on the front paws of dogs. However, detached rear canine dewclaws can be prone to injury, which leads some owners to consider dewclaw removal. If you’re considering canine dewclaw removal, talk to your veterinarian about the anticipated risks and benefits associated with this procedure. By working together with your veterinarian, you can make the best decision for your dog’s overall health.  

The post What Are Dog Dewclaws? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

How to Administer CPR on a Dog: Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Make sure the dog’s airway is clear. Look in your dog’s mouth to see if there are any objects, fluids, or other materials obstructing the airway. If there is a large ball or other object visible in your dog’s mouth or throat, attempt to remove it carefully. Use caution to avoid pushing the object further into your dog’s airway.  
2. Determine whether the dog is breathing. With your dog lying on their side, watch carefully and look for rising and falling of your dog’s chest. If your dog is breathing, there is no need to perform CPR. If your dog is not breathing, proceed to the next step.
3. Check for a heartbeat. Place your hand gently on your dog’s chest to feel for a heartbeat. In a small or medium-sized dog, you should be able to lay your hand across or around your dog’s entire chest and feel the heart. In the case of a large-breed dog, it can be difficult to feel the heartbeat, and you’ll want to make sure you are feeling the correct location. Flex your dog’s leg at the elbow and shoulder, looking for the area where the bend of the elbow lays over the chest. You should be able to feel your dog’s heartbeat in this approximate area.
4. Position your dog for chest compressions. Like in human CPR, you will need to give your dog chest compressions. However, the position of your hands will depend upon your dog’s conformation. In the case of very small dogs and puppies, wrap your hand around the dog’s chest and squeeze the entire ribcage. For medium and large-breed deep-chested dogs, lay your dog on their side and position your hands over your dog’s heart, overlapping them. (Again, use the bend of your dog’s elbow to locate the heart.) If you have a large barrel-chested dog, such as an English Bulldog, laying your dog on its back will allow the best access for chest compressions.  
5. Begin giving chest compressions. When giving chest compressions, your goal is to compress the chest by one-third to one-half. Wait for the chest wall to completely come back up before giving the next chest compression. Give chest compressions rate of 100-120 beats per minute; singing or humming the Bee Gee’s song “Stayin’ Alive” will help you achieve an appropriate heart rate. Perform a total of 30 chest compressions, then move on to the next step.
6. Place your mouth over your dog’s airway. Gently close your dog’s mouth and extend their neck. Cover both of your pet’s nostrils with your mouth, ensuring an airtight seal.
7. Perform artificial respirations. While watching to ensure that your dog’s chest rises with each breath, give your dog two slow rescue breaths.
8. Assess your dog. Pause for a second, watching your dog to see if their breathing or heartbeat returns. If your dog begins breathing and/or develops a heartbeat, monitor your dog closely while heading to the nearest veterinary hospital.
9. Repeat if applicable. If your dog is still not breathing and the heart is not beating, repeat cycles of 30 chest compressions and two rescue breaths. Pause briefly to assess your dog’s breath between cycles.
10. Seek veterinary care. Whether or not your dog’s breathing and heartbeat return, your dog needs immediate veterinary care. If possible, you should be performing CPR while on your way to the nearest available veterinary hospital. Even if your CPR efforts succeed and your dog’s breathing and heartbeat return, your dog will still require veterinary care for their underlying injuries or illness.

When is CPR necessary?

Cardiopulmonary resuscitation should only be performed on dogs that are not breathing and do not have a heartbeat.

If your dog loses consciousness but is still breathing or still has a heartbeat, there is no reason to waste time initiating CPR. Instead, take your dog to a veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Performing CPR unnecessarily can cause injury to your dog, in addition to delaying needed care. Aggressive chest compressions may result in cracked ribs, so we never want to perform CPR unless it is essential to your dog’s survival.

There are many potential scenarios in which a dog might need CPR. These scenarios include, but are not limited to: choking, drowning, blood loss (after being hit by a car or involved in a severe dogfight), and severe illness.

What is the prognosis for dogs receiving CPR?

If your dog needs CPR, they are seriously ill or have sustained a serious injury. Therefore, your dog’s prognosis is guarded, even with the best possible care.

Providing CPR is never a replacement for emergency veterinary care. Instead, CPR is should be administered while on your way to the veterinary hospital, where your dog can receive the life-saving care that they truly need.

Summary

While we all hope that our dogs will never be in a position to require CPR, it’s best to be prepared. If your dog stops breathing and does not have a detectable heartbeat, a combination of chest compressions and rescue breaths provided during transport to an emergency veterinary hospital can improve your dog’s likelihood of a successful outcome.

The post How to Administer Dog CPR appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

It’s natural to wonder whether your dog is sleeping too much, too little, or just the right amount. In this article, we’ll discuss typical canine sleep habits and what you should do if you suspect a sleep problem.

How many hours does an average dog sleep each day?

An average adult dog sleeps anywhere from 10-14 hours per day.

In contrast, humans typically sleep just 7-8 hours per day. Even if your dog goes to bed at the same time as you and wakes up with your alarm clock, you can expect that your dog may nap up to seven additional hours during the course of the day.

The champion nappers of the pet world are cats, who tend to sleep anywhere from 15-20 hours per day!

Sleep habits change over your dog’s lifespan

Growing puppies need lots of sleep because much of their energy is directed toward healthy growth and development. In the early weeks and months of life, a puppy may sleep up to 22 hours per day. Puppies often sleep for long periods of time, wake up for a brief period to eat, play, go potty, and then fall right back asleep.

As they mature, puppies begin to stay awake for progressively longer amounts of time. The precise amount of sleep they need varies based upon their developmental stage and activity level, but the general trend as puppies age will be towards less sleeping and more awake time.

Most adult dogs sleep primarily during the overnight hours while their owners sleep. During the day, they often alternate between periods of sleeping and napping. Dogs may sleep more when left home alone, spending more time awake when their owners are available for interaction.

Abnormal sleep in dogs

If your dog appears to be sleeping too much or too little, or you notice any other significant change in your dog’s sleep habits, it’s time for a visit to your veterinarian. There are numerous medical conditions that can cause lethargy in dogs, leading to increased sleep. Similarly, a number of conditions may cause your dog to be restless and unable to sleep.

Your veterinarian will likely perform a thorough physical examination, followed by some laboratory tests. An examination is used to detect painful conditions that could interfere with sleep. Blood tests and a urinalysis screen for metabolic diseases that can interfere with healthy canine sleep habits.

If your dog receives a clean bill of health from your veterinarian, focus on your dog’s routines and environment. Give your dog plenty of exercise and activity during the day, so they will be tired at night. Be sure your dog has a comfy bed for sleeping, away from noisy, high-traffic areas of your home. Keep your home at a comfortable temperature for your dog – small breeds often prefer warmer temperatures, while large-breed dogs like cooler temperatures. Finally, allow your dog to rest in an area that is free of distractions. These steps can boost your dog’s likelihood of obtaining quality, restful sleep.

Sleep disorders in dogs

Although canine sleep disorders are uncommon, they can occur.

There are three primary sleep disorders in dogs:

• Narcolepsy: Dogs with narcolepsy fall asleep suddenly, and they may do so randomly or in response to certain triggers. These dogs typically remain asleep (unable to be woken) for several seconds, then wake up and quickly return to normal. Narcolepsy is an inherited condition in Dachshunds, Doberman Pinschers, Labrador Retrievers, and Poodles.
• REM sleep disorder: Similar to sleepwalking in humans, REM sleep disorder results in abnormal movements during sleep in dogs. Some movement during dreaming is normal, but these dogs may walk, roll, or thrash around in their sleep.
• Sleep breathing disorder (sleep apnea): This condition is most common in Bulldogs, Boxers, Pugs, and other brachycephalic (squished-face) breeds. When sleeping, these dogs may struggle to take in adequate oxygen, causing them to wake up and reposition themselves.

If your dog shows signs of a sleep disorder, consult your veterinarian. 

Summary

In most cases, healthy dogs sleep all night long and doze on and off throughout the day. Some dogs sleep more than others, but this variation is usually subtle and not a cause for concern. However, if your dog’s sleep patterns change dramatically or if your dog is showing signs of a sleep disorder, a veterinary workup is recommended. Talk to your veterinarian to determine the best steps for your dog.

The post How Much Sleep Do Dogs Need? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

While it may be tempting to gravitate towards a food with attractive packaging and appealing advertising, the truth is that advertising can be misleading. Some owners are attracted to feeding human food, but that can lead to chronic conditions like obesity and pancreatitis. Finally, some owners consider raw diets, but these diets have been shown to increase the risk of foodborne disease.

What Makes a Dog Food “Good?”

A high-quality dog food is one that will meet all of your dog’s nutritional needs and support their overall health. A high-quality diet not only contains all of the required nutrients for your dog’s life stage, it also contains these nutrients in the correct ratios and in a form that is easily digested and absorbed. A high-quality diet may also contain additional ingredients, beyond what is strictly required, to further support your dog’s health.

Selecting the best possible dog food requires a bit of research into both the diet itself and the company that manufactures that diet. Any dog food manufacturer can create a dog food recipe that sounds wholesome and place an appealing label on that diet. A good dog food manufacturer, however, goes a step further. They take the time to conduct research on the needs of the pets that will eat their diets, including both healthy pets and pets with specific medical conditions. This research allows the manufacturer to understand the needs of the pets eating their diet, which is essential to formulating an optimal diet.

Feeding trials also play a role in developing a high-quality diet. These feeding trials involve feeding a diet to a group of dogs, in a controlled laboratory setting, for a period of at least six months. The dogs’ health is assessed during and after that test, including both physical exam parameters and blood tests. While no feeding trial can provide a perfect assurance that a diet will work for every dog, these are the best tool that we have available for assessing the real-world performance of a given dog food.

How to Read a Dog Food Label

When selecting a dog food, it’s important to read the label carefully. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) sets guidelines regarding pet food labels. That means that all labels are required to contain a similar set of information.

When you look at the front of a bag or can of dog food, much of the information you will see relates to marketing claims. Many dog food brands use fancy descriptives like gourmet, premium, all-natural, human grade, and holistic. Unfortunately, these terms are relatively meaningless, and manufacturers are not required to back them up. While this information may seem helpful, it actually doesn’t tell you much about the diet. Instead, it’s best to flip the bag or can over. The important information is typically located on the back of the packaging.  

The most important part of a dog food label is the nutritional adequacy statement. This statement tells you whether the diet is intended to serve as a complete diet or as a treat. It also tells what species (dog or cat) and life stage (puppy, adult dog, senior dog, or all life stages) the food is intended for. For example, you may see a nutritional adequacy statement that says, “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that X Dog Food provides complete and balanced nutrition for adult dogs.” This tells you that this food has been through feeding trials (good news!) and that it has been shown to meet the nutritional needs of adult dogs. This is great news if you’re buying the food for an adult dog, but this diet may not be adequate for a growing puppy. Some foods have a nutritional adequacy statement saying that they are intended for “intermittent or supplemental feedings.” These diets are not nutritionally complete and cannot be used as your pet’s sole source of nutrition, even if the words and images on the front of the label suggest they are intended to be used as a complete diet.

In addition to the nutritional adequacy statement, a dog food label also contains the following information:

• Ingredient list
• Guaranteed analysis (nutrient levels)
• Feeding directions

Feeding directions are certainly essential information because they help you determine how much to feed your dog. Ingredient lists can be beneficial if your dog has a known food allergy, allowing you to avoid certain ingredients. Guaranteed analysis is typically less helpful; as long as the food provides complete and balanced nutrition (as stated in the nutritional adequacy statement), you can be confident that the nutrient levels in the guaranteed analysis will be appropriate.

Interestingly, you will not typically find calorie counts listed on a dog food label. Use the label’s feeding directions as a starting point, adjusting your dog’s food intake up or down as needed to maintain a healthy body weight.

Find the Best Dog Food Brands

Many pet parents’ top priority is finding a dog food that fits their budget. While it’s true that pet supplies can be pricey, there are many ways to get healthy dog food at an affordable price. High-quality diets are available at a variety of price points; you don’t necessarily need to purchase the most expensive food to ensure your dog’s health. (One exception worth mentioning: prescription diets. These diets are expensive, but there may not be a cheaper option to treat some medical conditions.) Whether you prefer to shop at a pet boutique or a big-box store, there is likely an available dog food that will meet your dog’s need without breaking the bank.

Talk to your veterinarian about your dog’s diet, including the brand that you’re considering. Veterinarians receive nutritional training during veterinary school, and typically stay up-to-date on nutritional advances through veterinary journals and continuing education conferences. Your veterinarian can help you select an appropriate brand of dog food for your pet, depending on your family’s preferences and budget.

Best Dog Food for Puppies

Picking a healthy dog food is a high priority for puppies, whose growing bodies and minds need proper nutrition. Puppies begin eating small amounts of solid food at about four weeks old, and they are fully weaned from their mothers at roughly six weeks old. From that time on, your puppy’s sole source of nutrition should be a high-quality puppy food (plus occasional treats, as needed for training). A nutritional deficiency or imbalance can affect puppies’ teeth, eyes, nails, fur, and overall growth for life, making it essential to select the best puppy food possible.

When selecting a diet for your puppy, it’s important to check the food’s nutritional adequacy statement. Ensure that you are purchasing a food developed specifically for puppies, because their needs often differ significantly from the needs of adult dogs. It’s also a good idea to ask your vet for their recommendation, especially since you’ll be a regular at the office getting all your puppy’s vaccines.

Best Dry Dog Food

There are many upsides to feeding your pet dry dog food, including convenience, cost, and cleanliness. Some dry dog foods are also formulated to help clean your dog’s teeth as they chew.

Don’t be fooled by marketing hype, though. Remember that many of the terms used on the front of the bag are meaningless. Instead, pay attention to the diet’s nutritional adequacy claims. Look for a complete and balanced diet that is appropriate for your dog’s life stage. Ensure that the food is made by a reputable manufacturer that performs ongoing research and conducts feeding trials. Talk to your veterinarian for further guidance.

Best Wet Dog Food

While many owners prefer dry dog food due to convenience, other dog owners prefer wet food. Wet foods can be especially beneficial for dogs that are picky eaters, as well as for dogs with dental disease that prohibits them from chewing dry food.

Selecting the best wet dog food is similar to selecting a high-quality dry dog food. Do your best to tune out trendy marketing terms, like “organic,” “grain-free,” and “all-natural.” Instead, evaluate the manufacturer’s research and quality control, looking for a diet that has been demonstrated to be complete and balanced for your dog’s life stage through the use of feeding trials.

Best Dog Food for Large Breeds

If you own a large breed dog, you’re probably familiar with the unique risks that can accompany these breeds. While large breeds are susceptible to many of the same conditions as smaller breed dogs, they are also at increased risk of a variety of orthopedic conditions, including arthritis.

Feeding a diet intended for large breed dogs can help to maximize your dog’s joint health. This is especially important during puppyhood, when a large breed puppy food can reduce the risk of abnormal skeletal growth that contributes to bone disease. Continuing to feed a large breed food during your dog’s adult and senior years can further reduce their risk of joint disease, as many of these diets contain glucosamine and other nutraceuticals (supplements) to support joint health.

Best Dog Food for Small Breeds

Like large breed dogs, small breeds have their own unique needs. Just imagine a tiny Chihuahua trying to chew a huge piece of large breed kibble! Small breed dogs do best with a diet that is designed specifically for them. Small breed dog foods often contain smaller pieces of kibble, making the diet easier for small dogs to chew with their smaller jaws and teeth.

Diets intended for small breed dogs may also be more calorie-dense and nutrient-dense than some large breed foods, to compensate for small breed dogs’ small stomachs and speedy metabolisms.

Best Dog Food for Allergies

For pups with food intolerances and allergies, finding the best dog food that meets their medical and nutritional needs can be tricky.

Food allergies involve an immune response to one or more ingredients in a food. These reactions typically occur to the proteins within a diet, and they can develop at any point in a dog’s lifetime (even if a dog has been eating the same food for years). Symptoms of a food allergy in dogs include excessive itching and licking, a dull coat, diarrhea, gas, and shaking the head.

A dog food intolerance is different from an allergy. Dogs who are intolerant of certain foods simply have sensitive stomachs that can’t comfortably digest those ingredients. That’s not to say their symptoms are any less painful or serious, but it’s important to recognize dog food allergies and intolerances are separate medical conditions.

If you suspect that your dog has a food allergy or food intolerance, talk to your veterinarian. Food allergies are typically diagnosed via a food trial, which involves feeding a prescription-strength, hypoallergenic dog food for a defined period of time. If your dog’s signs resolve on the hypoallergenic diet, your dog is diagnosed with a food allergy. Next, you can work with your vet to select a limited-ingredient food that relives your pet’s symptoms.

If feeding a prescription diet isn’t an option, you may instead wish to try an over-the-counter diet that avoids common allergens. Ingredients commonly associated with food allergies in dogs include:

• Beef
• Chicken
• Lamb
• Fish
• Eggs
• Milk

Unfortunately, simply feeding a limited-ingredient, over-the-counter food may not work for every dog. Many limited-ingredient foods are manufactured on the same production line as conventional foods. This can result in cross-contamination; even this small amount of allergen exposure may be enough to trigger a reaction in some dogs. In contrast, prescription allergy diets are often manufactured on a dedicated manufacturing line to minimize the risk of cross-contamination.

Best Dog Foods for Seniors

Dogs have different dietary needs at various life stages, from puppyhood to adulthood to senior living. Although it varies from breed to breed, a dog is typically considered a “senior” when they reach 7 – 10 years old.

Senior dogs are typically not as active as they once were, requiring less caloric intake. It’s important to revisit the best dog food for your pet as he ages; continuing to feed the same formula and amount can lead to nutritional deficiencies or obesity. Stay away from bones or fatty treats, which also contribute to pet obesity; choose dog-approved vegetables like carrots, green beans, and sweet potatoes to serve as snacks.

Many senior dogs have medical conditions that require specialized diets. A dog with arthritis or hip dysplasia can benefit from dog foods containing glucosamine, which lubricates joints. Diabetic dog food products are specialized to delay digestion so blood sugar levels don’t dangerously spike. Senior pets who struggle with constipation, kidney disease, or heart disease may require prescription dog food as well. Even the best dog foods can’t turn back time though, so it’s important to ensure your pup is still getting daily exercise, mental stimulation, and vet visits.

How Much Should I Feed My Dog?

When feeding your dog, use the feeding directions on the label as a starting point. Keep in mind, however, that these feeding directions assume your dog is not receiving any other treats or other calorie sources. In reality, most of us do tend to give our dogs at least one or two treats a day. Therefore, you may need to feed your dog a bit less than is recommended by the label feeding directions.

Monitor your dog’s body condition closely and make dietary adjustments as needed. If you begin feeding your dog according to the label directions and your dog starts to gain weight, try decreasing the size of your dog’s meals by approximately 10%. Monitor your dog’s weight for 3 – 4 weeks, and then adjust your dog’s meal size again if needed. If your dog begins weight, consider increasing the amount fed by approximately 10%.

Make small adjustments in your dog’s food intake every 3 – 4 weeks, until you find the “just right” amount that allows your dog to maintain a healthy weight.

Dog Food Myths & Misinformation

Unfortunately, much of the information found online surrounding pet foods is mythical in nature. As a responsible dog owner, it’s important to be able to separate fact from fiction.

Myth: Corn and grains are bad for dogs.

Corn and grains can be an excellent and affordable source of calories and nutrients for dogs. These ingredients are not simply “filler,” as some fear-mongering websites would have you believe.

Myth: Grain-free foods are best.

While some pet food manufacturers promote grain-free diets as being less likely to trigger allergies, wheat is actually a relatively uncommon cause of food allergies in dogs. There are no known health risks associated with grain in dog foods.

Myth: By-products are bad.

The term “by-product” refers to any part of an animal that we humans wouldn’t typically eat, or any ingredient other than high-quality muscle meat. However, these organs, such as liver and kidneys, are often filled with nutrients. In fact, some boutique brands even specifically promote their use of these ingredients, while also denouncing the use of by-products. Do your research and don’t fall victim to marketing hype on this topic; by-products can be a valuable source of nutrition.

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When it comes to nutritional trends, though, it can often be difficult to separate fact from fiction and determine whether a product is truly beneficial. Fortunately, fish oil is one of a number of supplements that actually has scientific evidence to support its use in people and pets!

What is fish oil?

Fish oil is a nutritional supplement that is derived from the tissues of oily fish. Salmon is the most common source of fish oil, but other cold-water fish such as sardines, anchovies, and menhaden may also be used. This oil is removed from fish tissue during processing. It is then purified, and anti-oxidants are added as a preservative.  

What are the benefits of fish oil for cats?

Fish oil contains high levels of two omega-3 fatty acids: eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Each of these omega-3 fatty acids has unique effects on the body, and can be used to treat a number of conditions.

The primary effect of EPA is to reduce inflammation in the body. Therefore, fish oil is often used to treat inflammatory conditions, such as skin allergies, osteoarthritis, and some types of heart disease. Additionally, EPA may be beneficial in the management of seizures and kidney disease.

DHA acts primarily on the nervous system. It plays an important role in promoting brain growth during kitten development, and can also help improve cognitive function in senior cats.  

Are there any health risks associated with fish oil?

Some cats experience gastrointestinal effects, such as mild nausea or diarrhea, when taking a fish oil supplement. If this occurs, be sure your cat is taking their supplement with a full meal. Eating fish oil on an empty stomach may contribute to its gastrointestinal effects. Additionally, you may want to start with a lower dose, gradually working your way up to your cat’s recommended dose. This can allow your cat’s gastrointestinal tract time to gradually acclimate to the supplement.

Fish oil may cause your cat to take on a slightly fishy odor. An odor from the mouth or skin is not a problem for your cat, but it may take some getting used to on your part! Additionally, some cats develop an oily or flaky coat while taking fish oil supplements.

With excessively high doses of fish oil, serious side effects may occur. A high dose of fish oil may lead to pancreatitis, a potentially life-threatening condition associated with pancreatic inflammation. High doses of fish oil can also cause bleeding abnormalities, delayed wound healing, and heavy metal toxicity.

If your cat has a history of clotting disorders, pancreatitis, gastrointestinal disease, or diabetes, talk to your veterinarian before administering a fish oil supplement.

How much fish oil is safe to give my cat?

We don’t know the maximum safe dose for fish oil in cats. There has been considerable research on the use of fish oil in dogs, but fewer studies have been conducted on cats.

In order to minimize the risk of overdose, stick to products that have been recommended by your veterinarian. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s label recommendations closely. More supplementation isn’t always better; exceeding the recommended dose can have potentially serious effects on your cat.

What form of fish oil is best for cats?

There are two forms of fish oil that are used in cats: liquids or capsules.

Liquid fish oil supplements often come in a bottle with a pump. The label instructions will tell you how many pumps of fish oil supplement to add to your cat’s diet on a daily basis. While liquid fish oil can be added to dry or canned food, it may be easier to mix with canned food.

Capsules be more convenient for some owners, but many cats are reluctant to swallow large capsules. Instead, you can cut a hole in the tip of the capsule, and the squeeze the liquid contents of the capsule and directly onto your cat’s food. Again, be sure to follow the label instructions.

It may take some trial and error to determine which form of fish oil your cat prefers.  

Which fish oil is best?

Supplements are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration in the same way that drugs are regulated. Therefore, there can be significant variation between brands. It’s important to be sure that you are purchasing a high-quality brand of fish oil, so you can ensure that your cat is receiving appropriate quantities of EPA and DHA.

Your best option is to purchase a fish oil supplement from your veterinarian, if possible. Many veterinary hospitals stock Eicosaderm®, Bayer FreeForm Snip Tips®, or other prescription-strength fish oil supplements. These supplements come from reputable veterinary drug manufacturers, providing a greater assurance of quality and safety.

If your veterinarian does not stock a prescription product, you may need to purchase an over-the-counter fish oil supplement. Talk to your veterinarian to determine which brand they recommend. Commonly-recommended brands include Nordic Naturals Omega-3 Pet® and Ascenta Feline Omega 3®.

Conclusion

Fish oil can have a number of benefits in cats, minimizing inflammatory conditions while contributing to brain development. The most common side effect associated with fish oil is mild nausea or diarrhea, but this can often be controlled by giving the supplement with food. If you wish to start your cat on a fish oil supplement, talk to your veterinarian to determine whether this supplement is safe for your cat and discuss brand recommendations.

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Cats can enter their first heat cycle as early as six months of age. (There are rare reports of cats as young as 4.5 months old going into heat!) An in-heat cat that slips outdoors or otherwise encounters an intact male cat, even briefly, can become pregnant.

If you own an intact (non spayed) female cat that is six months of age or older, it’s important to be able to recognize signs of feline pregnancy. Additionally, you need to know what to do in the event that your cat becomes pregnant and how to recognize signs that may indicate the need for veterinary intervention.

Signs of Pregnancy in Cats

The first few weeks

The average feline pregnancy is nine weeks or 63 days long, although pregnancy may be as short as 58 days or as long as 70 days. In the first few weeks of pregnancy, you are unlikely to notice any visible changes in your cat. Unless you know that she was bred during her last heat cycle, you may have no reason to suspect that she is pregnant.

Month one

Beginning one month into your cat’s pregnancy, you might notice her belly becoming more round in shape. This change is more obvious in young, thin cats. In an overweight or obese cat, you may not notice any body shape changes at all, even in late pregnancy.

Month two

One to two months into your cat’s pregnancy, you might notice that her nipples are becoming more prominent. They may be larger and more intensely pink in color. This change occurs as your cat’s mammary glands prepare for nursing kittens.

Month three

In the final one to two weeks of pregnancy, your cat might begin to demonstrate nesting behaviors. You may notice that your cat has found a quiet area of your home and is hiding more often. Some cats arrange blankets to create a nest for their kittens. During this time, your cat may also become more or less affectionate towards you and other pets in your home.

All of these changes can be subtle. In some cases, cat owners do not see any of these signs, and their first indication of pregnancy is the discovery of live kittens! However, if you notice that your cat has a swollen belly, prominent nipples, or is demonstrating nesting behavior, these changes could suggest that your cat is pregnant.

Pregnancy Testing in Cats

Physical examination

If you are seeing signs that suggest your cat may be pregnant, schedule a visit with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will begin by performing a physical examination on your cat. They will assess your cat’s overall health, then feel her abdomen to see if they can palpate any uterine changes that might suggest pregnancy. Pregnancy can be palpated as early as three to four weeks after breeding, if your cat is thin and a relaxed patient. Cats that are tense or overweight may make pregnancy palpation a challenge, especially in the early stages of pregnancy.

Pregnancy ultrasound

Ultrasound can also be used to diagnose a feline pregnancy at a relatively early stage. Pregnancy can often be seen on an ultrasound as soon as two to three weeks post-breeding. Ultrasound is not reliable for counting the number of kittens that are present, but can be used to confirm whether or not a cat is pregnant.

X-Rays

Radiographs (x-rays) can typically detect pregnancy at approximately 6 weeks post-breeding. This is the point at which the fetal skeletons begin to mineralize, allowing your veterinarian to see each kitten individually. Radiographs are the most reliable way to determine your cat’s expected litter size, although counts obtained on radiographs are sometimes misleading. 

Caring for Your Pregnant Cat

Feed a good diet

Pregnant cats require a diet that will meet both their nutritional needs and the needs of their growing kittens. Talk to your veterinarian to determine an appropriate diet for your cat during this period. In general, a high-quality kitten food is the best diet for a pregnant cat.

Create a cozy birthing spot

Prior to birth, ensure that your cat has a quiet area to deliver her kittens. Place a box or laundry basket, lined with soft blankets, in a dark, quiet area of your home. Be aware, however, that your cat may or may not decide to use the area that you have set up for her. Many owners set up a birthing area in one area of their house, only to have their cat deliver her kittens somewhere completely different.

Your cat in labor

Most cats are able to give birth with little or no assistance. If you notice that your cat has been having active contractions for more than one hour without producing kittens, is having bloody discharge, is showing signs of pain, or otherwise appears to be in distress, however, you should call your veterinarian or local veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Your cat may need emergency medical assistance.

After delivery, the kittens and queen should be kept together. Avoid separating them for the first few weeks of life. She will meet all of their nutritional needs through nursing, which means she will need to remain on a high-quality, nutritious diet to support milk production.

Schedule a veterinary visit for the kittens when they are six weeks old. At this time, the kittens will each receive a physical examination, deworming, and their first set of vaccinations.

Pregnancy Prevention in Cats

Due to the risks inherent in birthing, as well as the cat overpopulation crisis in the United States, any cat that is not intended for breeding should be spayed or neutered before reaching sexual maturity. Spaying your cat not only prevents unintended pregnancy, it also protects your cat’s health. Spaying your cat will significantly decrease her risk of mammary cancer (breast cancer) and eliminate the risk of pyometra (a potentially life-threatening uterine infection).

If your cat has reached sexual maturity and is not yet spayed, ensure that she remains indoors at all times and is not allowed access to intact male cats. Even a single trip outdoors could result in pregnancy; stray male cats will travel over a mile to reach a female cat that is in heat.

If your cat is pregnant or has recently had kittens, talk to your veterinarian about the optimal time to have her spayed. In most cases, a cat can be spayed as soon as her kittens are weaned.

Summary

• All female cats should be spayed prior to their first heat cycle, and pregnancy can occur when this surgery is delayed.
• The signs of pregnancy in cats may be subtle, but can include swelling of the belly, changes in nipple size and color, and the demonstration of nesting behavior.
• Your veterinarian may be able to diagnose your cat’s pregnancy as early as two to three weeks post-breeding, and radiographs are often taken six weeks into your cat’s pregnancy to determine how many kittens your cat is expecting.
• As your cat approaches her delivery date, ensure that she has access to a quiet area for birthing.
• Ensure that you are ready to help monitor her delivery and seek veterinary care if necessary.

The content is not intended to be a substitute for professional veterinarian advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified health provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical diagnosis, condition, or treatment options.

The post Is Your Cat Pregnant? If So, What Should You Do Next? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

Read on to learn some helpful strategies for medicating dogs and cats.

The Easiest Option: Camouflage the Pill

In many cases, you can easily sneak a pill into a tasty treat. You might choose to hide your dog’s pill inside cream cheese or peanut butter, while a cat might respond better to a pill hidden in canned food or tuna. You can even purchase Pill Pockets®, which are soft treats that are specifically designed to hide pills.

When selecting a treat, be sure to pick something your pet truly loves. You want them to ingest the whole treat in one big bite, instead of spending a lot of time chewing or investigating. The treat should also be a bit “sticky,” to make it harder for your pet to pick the pill out of the treat.

Slightly More Advanced: A Pill “Sandwich”

In some cases, a sneaky dog or cat may find the pill hiding inside their treat. Not only will this lead them to eat around the pill, it may make them more cautious in taking future treats from you! If this happens, you will need to be more deliberate in your pill-hiding efforts.

To minimize the chances of your pet finding the pill, try the following:

• First, give your pet a treat that does not contain a pill. Your pet may look for the pill, but they will probably eat the treat after not finding any pills inside. Repeat this a few times, until your pet is readily eating your treats without concern.
• Next, give your pet the treat that contains the pill. Hopefully, they will scarf it down after deciding that your treats are “safe!”
• Finally, give your pet a final treat without a pill, followed by praise and affection.

The goal is to do all of this relatively quickly, “sandwiching” the pill-containing treat between two unadulterated treats. This minimizes the likelihood of your pet discovering the treat inside the middle treat.

Expert Level: Pilling a Dog or Cat

If you can’t convince your dog or cat to take their pill in a treat, you are going to need to place the pill in their mouth. Fortunately, this is often easier than it sounds! However, it’s important to take your pet’s personality into account. If your pet has shown signs of aggression in the past, this could be an especially risky maneuver. Talk to your veterinarian if you are concerned about your ability to safely pill your pet.

How to Pill a Dog

• Wait for a time when your dog is in a good mood and interested in interacting, such as right before a meal.
• Hold your dog’s head by placing the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand on either side of your dog’s upper muzzle.
• Use your other hand to gently open your dog’s lower jaw.
• Use your index finger or a pill popper to quickly position the pill as far back in your dog’s mouth as possible.
• Close your dog’s mouth and hold it closed briefly.
• Encourage your dog to swallow by rubbing their neck or blowing gently on your dog’s nose.
• Release your dog’s muzzle once they swallow the pill.
• Reward your dog with their meal, a high-value treat, or affection.

How to Pill a Cat

• Place your cat on a countertop or other elevated surface, for ease of handling.
• Position yourself behind your cat (with their tail up against your belly), to keep them from backing away from you.
• Place the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand on either side of your cat’s upper muzzle, near the cheeks.
• Use your other hand to gently open your cat’s lower jaw.
• Use your index finger or a pill popper to quickly position the pill as far back in your cat’s mouth as possible.
• Close your cat’s mouth and hold it closed briefly.
• Encourage your cat to swallow by gently rubbing their neck.
• Release your cat’s muzzle once they swallow the pill. It can be difficult to feel when a cat has swallowed, but they often visibly lick their lips after swallowing.
• Reward your cat with a meal or a high-value treat.

Regardless of whether you are pilling a dog or cat, it is important to remain calm. Your pets can sense your anxiety and that will make the process more difficult. Additionally, prepare yourself to pill your pet as quickly as possible. The more time you spend getting into position, the more impatient your pet will become. Finally, use a treat or food reward to make the experience more positive, increasing your likelihood of success when administering the next dose of medication.

Additional Tricks

If you are struggling with the above tips, there are several additional strategies that you can try.

You may be able to crush a pill or open a capsule, then mix the powdered medication with a canned food or other soft treat. This doesn’t always work, because some medications have an extremely bitter taste that is difficult to mask, but it may be a consideration if more conventional strategies don’t work for you. Talk to your veterinarian before attempting this strategy, because some medications should not be crushed or opened.

If worse comes to worse and you still cannot administer the medication, contact your veterinarian. They may be able to offer an in-person demonstration of how to pill your pet, helping you modify your approach.

Finally, if your pet absolutely refuses to take pills, talk to your veterinarian to determine whether your pet can receive a chewable or liquid medication. Your veterinarian may be able to prescribe an alternative medication that is available in a different form, or may direct you to a compounding pharmacy that can customize your pet’s medication.

Remember, your veterinarian is just as concerned as you are with making sure that your pet receives their medication. Partnering with your veterinarian is a valuable strategy for medicating your pet.

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