Whatever you call them, primordial pouches are a normal part of cat anatomy. However, changes in your cat’s primordial pouch can be associated with health problems. Read on to learn everything you need to know about primordial pouches and when you should be concerned.

What Is the Primordial Pouch?

Primordial pouch is simply the name we have given to the flap of loose skin, fat, and other tissues that runs along the bottom of a cat’s belly. It is usually most evident towards the back end of their belly, between their rear legs.

All cats have primordial pouches, but some are more evident than others. It’s an individual thing. One of your cats may have a large pouch that swings back and forth when they trot down the hallway while another’s might be barely noticeable. Both versions (and everything in between) can be normal.

Why Do Cats Have a Primordial Pouch?

We can’t say with certainty why cats have them, but there are several widespread theories as to the purpose of the cat primordial pouch:

1. Primordial pouches store fat, which can be used as an energy source if food becomes less available.
2. All that loose skin along a cat’s belly allows them to stretch w-a-y out when they run and jump, increasing their maneuverability.
3. A cat’s soft belly is one of their vulnerable spots. Having an extra layer of protection may help prevent serious damage to their abdominal organs if they get into a fight or suffer other injuries.

Primordial Pouch—What’s Normal, What’s Not

Young kittens usually don’t have much of a cat pouch. It often starts to develop in earnest when they are six months old or so. As cats reach their middle years (seven to ten years old), their pouch may start to hang a little lower. Just like us, their tissues become weaker and less elastic with age, which can result in sagging.

Primordial pouches come in all different shapes and sizes. However, even large cat pouches that hang quite low should be made up mostly of skin, not fat. If the fat pad within your cat’s pouch is slowly getting larger, there’s a good chance that they are gaining unhealthy amounts of weight.

Body condition scoring can help you tell the difference between an overweight cat and a slim cat with a large primordial pouch. Look at four factors to determine if your cat has an ideal body condition:

• Your cat should have a visible waist when you look down on them from above.
• You can easily feel their ribs with gentle pressure, but their ribs should not be visible.
• Their belly (minus the pouch) and their chest will be at approximately the same height off the ground.
• The cat’s abdominal fat pad within the primordial pouch should be small.

What to do When Weight Gain Makes a Cat’s Pouch Larger

According to recent estimates, more than 60% of cats are overweight or obese, so don’t be surprised if you find that your cat’s enlarging primordial pouch is a sign of weight gain.

Being overweight can reduce a cat’s lifespan and lower their quality of life. The hormones and cytokines released by fat lead to chronic inflammation and increase a cat’s risk for diabetes mellitus, heart disease, hepatic lipidoses, arthritis, lower urinary tract disease, and some types of cancer.

If your cat is only a little overweight, you may be able to help them lose weight on your own. Take a week or so to gradually reduce the number of calories your cat takes in by about fifteen percent. First scale back on treats and then, if necessary, reduce the amount of cat food you offer or switch to a high protein, diet cat food that has a lower caloric content (kcal/kg) than your cat’s current diet. This information is printed on cat food labels.

Weigh your cat weekly, with the goal of helping them lose around one percent of their body weight per week. In other words, a 15-pound cat can safely lose about 0.15 pounds per week.

Talk to your veterinarian if your cat is struggling to lose weight or if you have any questions or concerns about their overall health, including their primordial pouch.

The post Why Do Cats Have a Pouch? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

But excessive licking may also be a sign of a potentially serious health condition, and it can lead to skin damage and infections. In this article, we’ll investigate why dogs might lick excessively and what to do about it. 

Causes of Excessive Licking in Dogs

There are many reasons why dogs lick excessively. Some causes can be managed at home, but others require veterinary attention.

• Itchiness – Anything that itches can lead to excessive licking. The licking may be restricted to one part of the body or cover wider areas. Common causes of dog itching include parasites like fleas and mange mites; bacterial, yeast, and fungal infections; and allergies to environmental triggers (pollen, mold, and house mites, for example) or food.
• Pain – Dogs often lick in response to pain. Repetitive licking releases endorphins, which are the body’s natural painkillers. Osteoarthritis, cuts, punctures, broken or overgrown toenails, insect bites or stings, joint injuries, cancer, and other sources of pain could be to blame.
• Nausea – Gastrointestinal problems and other conditions that cause nausea can make dogs drool, lick their lips, and lick themselves or objects in the environment like the floor or couch.
• Mental health – Repeated behaviors like constant licking release feel-good endorphins. Dogs with obsessive-compulsive disorders or anxiety or who are stressed due to boredom or changes in their lives can lick excessively to make themselves feel better.

How to Stop Excessive Licking in Dogs

Identifying the reason for a dog’s excessive licking is the first step to stopping it. Using an E-collar, bad-tasting spray, or bandages to prevent licking may help in the short term but does nothing to alleviate your dog’s discomfort. Unless the cause is obvious and easily treated at home (a small cut, for example), it’s best to make an appointment with your veterinarian.

The doctor will start by asking questions about your dog’s lifestyle, health history, and symptoms. They will also perform a complete physical exam. At this point, the vet will likely have an idea as to the likely origin of your dog’s excessive licking.

Itching

Itching is the most common cause of excessive licking in dogs. Your veterinarian may be able to identify the problem with just a physical examination (a flea infestation, for example), or they could need to run diagnostic tests such as a skin scraping to look for mange mites, skin cytology to identify bacterial and yeast infections, or a fungal culture for ringworm. Allergy testing may be necessary to identify a dog’s allergic triggers.

Once the cause of a dog’s itchiness is diagnosed and treated the excessive licking should resolve. Sometimes medications to ease itching are also necessary.

Pain

Pain is another common cause of excessive licking in dogs. Usually, the dog’s licking will focus on the painful area, such as an especially arthritic joint. Your veterinarian will need to perform a physical examination and possibly take X-rays or run other diagnostic tests to determine the source of your dog’s pain.

Whenever possible, treatment for excessive licking due to pain should try to eliminate the source of a dog’s pain, but veterinarians often also prescribe medications to improve a dog’s comfort level. Never give your dog a pain reliever without first speaking to your vet.

Nausea

Excessive licking due to nausea usually accompanies other symptoms like vomiting, a poor appetite, or weight loss. See a veterinarian if your dog’s nausea is severe or lasts more than a day or two. The doctor may need the results of bloodwork, a urinalysis, abdominal x-rays or ultrasound, and other diagnostic tests to determine why your dog is nauseous.

Treatment should be aimed at the underlying cause of a dog’s nausea, but anti-nausea medications can be beneficial while other treatments take effect. Once a dog’s nausea improves the dog’s excessive licking should resolve too.

Mental Health

Stress, anxiety, and behavioral problems can all lead to excessive licking in dogs. Boredom is a major stressor for dogs. If you think your dog is licking due to boredom, increase the amount of attention, playtime, and exercise they get throughout the day. Food puzzles are a great way to ease boredom when dogs have to be alone.

If something has recently changed in your dog’s life and they seem stressed by their new situation, try to duplicate their previous schedule to the greatest extent possible. For example, adding a new puppy to a household is often stressful for older dogs. Make sure your older dog gets plenty of one-on-one time with you and can easily escape unwanted attention from their new family member.

Over-the-counter anti-anxiety treatments like calming nutritional supplements and pheromone sprays or collars may help in mild cases of stress and anxiety. Veterinarians can prescribe medications and recommend other forms of treatment for serious mental health disorders, including severe anxiety and obsessive-compulsive disorders.

When to See the Vet Because a Dog Is Licking Excessively

Don’t panic if you notice a mild increase in your dog’s licking. If they seem healthy in all other ways, trying some safe at-home treatments may be all that is needed. Improved parasite control, omega-3 fatty acid supplements, itch-relieving dog shampoos, or calming nutritional supplements and pheromones may provide some relief.

On the other hand, dogs should be seen by a veterinarian if they are licking enough to lose hair or develop skin wounds or if they have other signs of a physical illness or behavioral problem.

The post Excessive Licking in Dogs: When to Be Concerned appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

What is a Gastric Ulcer?

A gastric ulcer is simply an open sore on the inner surface of a dog’s stomach. Gastric ulcers usually develop when too much stomach acid is present or when something has gone wrong with the gastric mucosal barrier – the layers of mucus, tissues, and molecular compounds that normally protect the stomach wall.

Causes of Gastric Ulcers in Dogs

Dogs can develop gastric ulcers for many reasons, including:

• Drug side effects – Dogs who are treated with high doses or long courses of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) and corticosteroid medications are at increased risk for gastric ulcers because these drugs lower the levels of prostaglandins that help protect the lining of the stomach.
• Other conditions that disrupt the barrier that protects the stomach – Lots of health problems can cause damage to the gastric mucosal barrier, including inflammatory bowel disease, infections (especially with a bacteria called Helicobacter), tumors in the stomach wall, eating foreign material, neurologic disorders, surgery to the stomach, gastric dilatation and volvulus, low protein levels, and shock.
• Health problems that make the stomach more acidic – Liver disease, chronic kidney disease, gastrinomas (a tumor in the pancreas), and mast cell tumors can all increase the production of gastric acid and may result in stomach ulcers.
• Extreme exercise – Several studies have found an extremely high (up to 48.5%) prevalence of gastric ulcers in sled dogs competing in the Iditarod.

In some cases, an underlying cause for a dog’s gastric ulcer may not be obvious.

Symptoms of Gastric Ulcers

Vomiting is by far the most common symptom of gastric ulcers in dogs, but lots of things make dogs vomit! Other signs to look for include:

• Vomit that may contain bright red blood or partially digested blood that resembles coffee grounds
• Poor appetite
• Weight loss
• Drooling
• Abdominal pain
• Dark stools, which can be seen when partially digested blood is present

Severe gastric ulcers can lead to significant blood loss or create a hole (perforation) that allows stomach contents to leak into a dog’s abdominal cavity resulting in a serious condition called peritonitis. Talk to your veterinarian if your dog has any of the symptoms associated with a gastric ulcer. They can tell you if your dog needs to be seen immediately.

How are Gastric Ulcers Diagnosed?

All of the symptoms of gastric ulcers in dogs can also be seen with other health problems. Therefore, a veterinarian will need to do a thorough workup to start narrowing down the potential causes. They will start by asking you questions about your dog’s health and lifestyle and then perform a physical examination. Be sure to mention any drugs or supplements that your dog is taking. Diagnostic testing will usually follow and may include:

• Fecal exams
• Bloodwork
• Urinalysis
• Imaging (x-rays and/or ultrasound) of your dog’s abdomen
• Additional tests may also be necessary

The results of all these tests will help your veterinarian rule out other causes of your dog’s symptoms and identify any potential underlying health problems. However, definitively identifying an ulcer usually requires the use of an endoscope or surgery that allows the veterinarian to look inside your dog’s stomach.

Treatment for Gastric Ulcers in Dogs

Mild to moderate gastric ulcers usually respond well to medical treatment. Several different types of drugs are available that can reduce the production of stomach acid or help protect the stomach’s lining as it heals. Veterinarians frequently prescribe omeprazole, misoprostol, or sucralfate, but other options are available too.

Dogs with severe gastric ulcers often need additional treatment and supportive care. Fluid therapy can counteract dehydration while transfusions may be required if a dog has lost a lot of blood. Your veterinarian will likely recommend surgery if a tumor is present, if your dog has a perforation and peritonitis, or if the ulcer doesn’t heal with medical treatment. If an underlying cause for the ulcer has been identified, it should be treated as well.

The diagnosis and treatment of gastric ulcers in dogs can get quite expensive, but the exact costs will depend on the specifics of a dog’s case.

Recovery and Management of Gastric Ulcers

Fortunately, most dogs with mild to moderate gastric ulcers will recover as long as they receive appropriate treatment. However, severe ulcers (including those that lead to perforation and peritonitis) and those associated with serious underlying health problems have a worse prognosis.

The post Gastric Ulcers in Dogs appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

How Do Dogs Sweat?

Dogs have two types of sweat glands:

Eccrine Sweat Glands – Also called merocrine sweat glands, eccrine sweat glands are the type of glands that are located over most of a person’s body and cool us off. Dogs only have eccrine sweat glands on their paw pads and the non-haired part of their nose. While sweat production from eccrine glands does increase when a dog gets hot, it doesn’t do much to cool them off since it affects such a small portion of their body.

Apocrine Sweat Glands – The sweat glands people have in their armpits are called apocrine sweat glands and are similar to the glands associated with a dog’s hair follicles over most of their bodies. They produce a small amount of thicker sweat that doesn’t play a role in body cooling but is instead thought to be essential to the health of the skin and fur. Apocrine sweat glands also emit pheromones that are used as a form of chemical communication.

Can Dogs Sweat Too Much?

The eccrine sweat glands on a dog’s nose and paw pads can produce more sweat when a dog gets hot, but this isn’t the case for their apocrine sweat glands. Increased production of sweat from apocrine sweat glands on the furred parts of a dog’s body is rare and usually associated with allergic skin disease. Make an appointment with your veterinarian if your dog’s skin appears to be sweating.

How Do Dogs Cool Down?

Since dogs don’t really sweat to cool down, they have to rely on other methods and strategies, including:

• Panting – Sweating cools off the body because the process of turning water from a liquid to a gas (evaporation) requires energy (heat, in this case). Evaporation takes heat away from the body. Panting relies on the same mechanism, but the evaporation occurs within the respiratory system, not the skin.

• Flushed skin and gums – The blood vessels in a dog’s mucous membranes and skin will dilate when they start to get too warm. This allows more blood to flow to mucous membranes in the respiratory tract where it can be cooled through evaporation and to the skin where contact with (hopefully) cooler surfaces or air can lower the dog’s body temperature. This process can cause a dog’s gums and skin to become redder than they usually are.

• Reduced activity – Activity generates heat, so when it’s hot outside, animals will rest whenever they have a chance. Many dogs, however, are so keen to get outside and have some fun (particularly with their people) that they will continue to run around even when they are becoming overheated.

• Seeking shade, cool locations, and water – Dogs that need to cool off will try to find cool, shady spots or bodies of water that allow heat to flow away from their body. This is also why some dogs will dig a hole so they can lie in the cooler, deep soil rather than on the surface of the ground that has become hot. Panting also causes a dog to lose water, so they will often try to find water to drink.

Signs That a Dog is Overheating

All of the methods that dogs use to cool down have their limits. A combination of high temperature, high humidity, continued exercise, and a lack of shade, water, or wind all make it more likely that a dog will overheat. Some dogs are also at higher risk than others. For example, brachycephalic dogs (those with short snouts) like Pugs and Bulldogs cannot dissipate heat through panting very well. Also, very old or very young dogs and those with certain medical conditions (obesity and diseases of the upper respiratory tract, lungs, heart, and central nervous system, for example) are at higher than average risk for developing heat exhaustion or heat stroke.

Symptoms that indicate a dog may be overheated include:

• Excessive panting
• Drooling a lot
• Producing thick, ropey drool
• Flushed (reddened) gums and skin
• Seeking out cool places to rest and water to drink or lie in
• Lack of coordination
• Lethargy
• Disorientation
• High heart rate
• Vomiting or diarrhea
• Seizures
• Collapse

If your dog has symptoms like these, get them to a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Tips for Helping Your Dog Cool Down

Dogs that are just getting a little warm should quickly bounce back with some commonsense home treatment. Stop whatever activity they are involved in and get them to a cool location. Offer them some cold water to drink and let them rest while you monitor their condition.

On the other hand, dogs that are developing heatstroke need immediate veterinary attention. If you can, dampen your dog’s skin and fur with cool water and then keep your car as cold as possible while you are on the way to the veterinary clinic. Direct your air conditioning vents towards your dog or keep the windows wide open to promote as much airflow as possible.

Of course, preventing health problems like heatstroke is always better than treating them. Any situation that is hot enough to make you sweat could be dangerous for your dog, but knowing how dogs stay cool can help you keep your pup happy and healthy.

The post Do Dogs Sweat? appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

The Benefits of Homemade Dog Food

Making your dog’s food at home may offer some benefits over commercially available diets. If you’re making your dog’s meals yourself, you have the freedom to purchase the freshest, highest-quality ingredients available. Home cooking can also be a good option for dogs with food allergies or other dietary sensitivities. When you know what ingredients your dog reacts to, it’s simple enough to avoid them. Dogs who struggle to eat enough food (because of illness or extreme pickiness) may eat more of a homemade diet. Dry kibble tends to be the least appealing to dogs. Wet foods are better, but a homemade diet can prove to be truly irresistible.

Before You Start Cooking: Homemade Dog Food Needs to be Balanced

Your homemade meal should contain protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals. Make sure you weigh your dog frequently to verify they stay a healthy weight. Take your dog to the vet before starting the homemade diet so your vet can determine your dog’s ideal weight and you can discuss what recipes are appropriate for your dog.

Protein

When a dog eats protein, their body breaks it down into its building blocks called amino acids, which are then reassembled into the proteins they need. Proteins play many roles in a dog’s body, including:

• Building and maintaining muscle, skin, hair, nails, tendons, ligaments, and cartilage
• Producing enzymes, hormones, and disease-fighting antibodies
• Acting as a source of specific nutrients, like nitrogen, that are used to make other molecules

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) puts together standards for dog food. The AAFCO minimum protein percentage for dog food is 22.5% for puppies and 18% for adults and seniors on a dry matter basis. Reporting nutrient percentages on a dry matter basis takes into account the differing amounts of water present in various types of dog food (canned versus kibble, for example).

Fats

Fats in the diet are an excellent source of energy and make food taste good. Essential fatty acids play important roles in the body and have to be present in the diet because a dog’s body can’t make them from other substances. For example, omega-3 fatty acids, like those present in cold-water fish oils, can reduce inflammation.

The AAFCO crude fat minimum percentage on a dry matter basis for puppy foods is 8.5% and for adult and senior dogs it is 5.5%.

Carbs

Carbohydrates aren’t an essential part of a dog’s diet, but they still can have many important roles such as:

• Providing energy
• Reducing the need for protein to be used as an energy source (freeing it up to be available for its other roles)
• Promoting normal gastrointestinal function (especially fiber)
• Supplying specific nutrients that can be used to make other molecules

AAFCO does not set standards for the amount of carbohydrate in dog foods since it is not considered an essential nutrient.

Vitamins and Minerals

Only small amounts of vitamins and minerals need to be provided in a dog’s diet, but without them, dogs can quickly become very sick. To make things even more complicated, too much of certain vitamins and minerals can be just as dangerous as too little.

Now let’s look at some vet-approved homemade dog food recipes that provide a good balance or proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.

Vet-Approved Recipe #1:

Massachusetts’ MSCPA-Angell Animal Medical Center provides sample recipes on its website for dogs weighing 15, 30 and 60 pounds.

For a 15-pound dog:

• 3 ounces of chicken, dark meat, cooked
• 1 1/3 cups of white rice, cooked
• 1 tablespoon of mixed vegetables, cooked
• 1 to 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil
• 1.5 black scoops Balance IT Canine vitamin, mineral, and amino acid supplement

For a 30-pound dog:

• 4.5 ounces of chicken, dark meat, cooked
• 2 cups of white rice, cooked
• 1.5 tablespoons of mixed vegetables, cooked
• 2 to 3 teaspoons of vegetable oil
• 2.5 black scoops Balance IT Canine vitamin, mineral, and amino acid supplement

For 60-pound dogs:

• 8 ounces of ounces of chicken, dark meat, cooked
• 3.5 cups of white rice, cooked
• 3 tablespoons of mixed vegetables, cooked
• 3 to 5 teaspoons of vegetable oil
• 4.5 black scoops Balance IT Canine

Directions

1. All proteins, carbohydrates, and vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, allowed to cool, and then weighed.
2. Combine all ingredients and mix them together well. Make sure the supplements are mixed thoroughly throughout the food.
3. This recipe provides one day’s worth of food. It can be prepared in the morning, divided into multiple portions for the day, and refrigerated until mealtime.

MSPCA-Angell AMC notes that the supplement, Balance IT® Canine, mentioned in these recipes is not optional. Leaving it out will produce a diet that has many nutritional deficiencies

Vet-Approved Recipe #2:

Founder’s Veterinary Clinic of Brea, California, offers a sample recipe for 20-pound dogs that you can half for 10-pounders or double for 40-pound canines.

For a 20-pound dog:

• 1/4 pound of cooked, skinless chicken
• 1 cup of cooked brown rice
• ½ to 1 cup of peas and carrots
• 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil (they recommend Udo’s Oil 3-6-9 Blend)
• 1/4 teaspoon of potassium chloride (a salt substitute).
• 250 mg calcium citrate
• Daily multiple vitamin/mineral supplement (either a vet-recommended supplement or ¼ of a human adult dose)

Allowed substitutions for this recipe include boned fish, lean ground turkey, beef, or lamb as a protein source and potatoes, yams, or pasta as a carbohydrate. As always, the supplements mentioned in this diet are not optional.

Directions

1. All proteins, carbohydrates, and vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, allowed to cool, and then weighed.
2. Combine all ingredients and mix them together well. Make sure the supplements are mixed thoroughly throughout the food.
3. This recipe provides one day’s worth of food. It can be prepared in the morning, divided into multiple portions for the day, and refrigerated until mealtime.

Vet-Approved Recipe #3:

The following recipe was created by Balance.it, for a 9 year old, spayed female dog who weighs 50 pounds. The Balance.it recipe generation tool allows pet parents to create nutritionally complete homemade dog foods for healthy pets using ingredients of your choice.

For a 50-pound dog

• 13 7/8 oz chicken breast, skinless, boneless, cooked, roasted
• 5 ¼ teaspoons canola oil
• 1 3/10 mL Nordic Naturals Omega-3 Pet Liquid 
• 1 ½ cups sweet potato, cooked, baked in skin, without salt, flesh fed only
• 3/4 cup spinach, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt 
• 11/16  teaspoon Morton iodized salt 
• 5  teaspoons Balance IT® Canine (2.5 g/tsp)

Directions

1. All proteins, carbohydrates, and vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, allowed to cool, and then weighed.
2. Combine all ingredients and mix them together well. Make sure the supplements are mixed thoroughly throughout the food.
3. This recipe provides one day’s worth of food. It can be prepared in the morning, divided into multiple portions for the day, and refrigerated until mealtime.

The Balance.it generator will also produce recipes that use human vitamin and mineral supplements rather than Balance IT® Canine, but they contain many more ingredients and are harder to prepare accurately.

What About Raw-Diet Foods?

Gaining popularity is the raw food diet, also known as the Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, or BARF, diet. The concept was developed by an Australian veterinarian, Dr. Ian Billinghurst. BARF’s philosophy states that “the diet a dog evolved to eat — over many millions of years of evolution — is the best way to feed it.” While you might find some veterinarians recommending homemade raw foods for dogs, similar to what ancient canines ate, that’s not the view of the American Veterinary Medical Association. The AVMA, along with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration Center for Veterinary Medicine and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, don’t recommend raw dog food, in part because of the risk of bacterial contamination or possible public health risks.

Always Get Your Vet’s Approval

If your dog suffers from medical issues, you will need to adjust certain veterinary-endorsed diets. Ask your own vet about your dog’s specific nutritional needs as well as for a recommendation for a certified veterinary nutritionist. The three of you can find a homemade diet that meets your pup’s dietary requirements. Whether your dog has specific medical problems or not, you should always tell your vet that your dog eats a homemade diet because they will need to see your dog more frequently to continue to evaluate the diet and to monitor for nutrition-related health problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

The post How to Make Vet-Approved Homemade Dog Food appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

If you already have a relationship with a great vet, congrats! But changing vets or finding a veterinarian for a new pet can be difficult. Let’s look at what you can do to find a vet who will be a good fit for both you and your pet.

Start Your Search Early

The best time to find a veterinarian for a new pet is before that pet even arrives in your home. New pets should be examined by a veterinarian within a few days of their adoption or purchase. Health problems can develop quickly, but even if your pet appears to be healthy, an examination may uncover potential problems. These may be simple to fix—intestinal worms, for example—or they may be more serious. Reputable breeders, rescues, and shelters stand by their animals and should agree to help with their care or even take them back if a severe health condition is found soon after they go to a new home.

Ask Around

Talk to friends, neighbors, and family about who they use for veterinary services and if they would recommend them. Groomers, trainers, boarding facilities—essentially anyone who works regularly with animals—are other good sources of recommendations.

You can also look at review sites but read the comments carefully. People have different expectations from their veterinarians, so what is positive for one pet parent may be negative for another.

Now, put together a list of two or three veterinarians you’d like to get more information about.

Do Some Research

Look to see if complaints have been lodged against the businesses or individual veterinarians with the Better Business Bureau and with your state’s veterinary licensing board.

Some clinics go the extra mile and pursue optional certifications. The doctors and staff at fear-free veterinary hospitals have “taken the time to complete extra behavioral and fear-free practice training/certification to help aid fearful pets.” Veterinary hospitals that are accredited by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) have to “regularly pass onsite evaluations based on more than 900 standards of veterinary care.”

Visit the Clinic

Make an unannounced visit to any veterinary clinics that you are still interested in. Check out the reception area. It should look and smell clean. Talk to the front office staff. Are they pleasant? You will probably be able to get a feel for the clinic’s culture just by talking to them.

Ask for a tour and try to meet at least one veterinarian, but understand that depending on what’s going on at the moment, this may need to be scheduled for a future time. The clinic’s staff should be proud to show off their workplace when they aren’t too busy. Watch how everybody interacts with their patients. Are they talking to them and trying to put them at ease? Feel free to ask questions. The veterinarians and support staff should be happy to explain what they are doing and be able to answer your questions clearly.

Get a detailed cost estimate for a routine visit or procedure that applies to your situation. Good examples include a first preventive care visit for an 8-week-old, unvaccinated puppy or spaying an adult cat. Comparing estimates provided by different clinics will give you an idea of how expensive each one might be, the level of care that they provide, and their willingness to be upfront about their fees.

This is also a good time to be thinking about purchasing a pet insurance policy that will help you provide your dog or cat with the veterinary care they need.

Choose a Veterinary Team, Not Just One Doctor

Veterinary medicine is an increasingly complicated field offering many of the same complex treatments that are available in human medicine… and for more than just one species! It’s impossible for a veterinarian to stay up to date on all aspects of veterinary care and to be available 24/7. For this reason, you should be looking for the best veterinary team to take care of your pets rather than a single individual.

You’ll be dealing most frequently with your primary care veterinarians. These are your go-to people for wellness care (vaccinations, parasite prevention, dental cleanings, etc.) and relatively routine illnesses and injuries. But there are situations when seeing your “regular” veterinarian isn’t possible or even in your pet’s best interests.

Some clinics have specialists and after-hours emergency care available in-house. Others refer these cases to veterinary hospitals in the community. Neither situation is necessarily better than the other; it’s more a matter of convenience and personal choice. Ask the clinics you’re interested in how they handle after-hours emergencies and specialist referrals.

Feel Free to Change Your Mind

Once you’ve found a veterinary clinic that looks like it’ll be a good fit for you, go ahead and schedule an appointment for a check-up, even if your pet isn’t technically “due” to be seen. It’s best to get to know a new veterinarian when your pet is well, not in the middle of an illness or injury when your anxiety level is high. And if at any time you feel like your current situation isn’t ideal, you can always start this process over again and find a new veterinarian for your pet.

The post How to Find a Veterinarian for Your New Pet appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

What are Seizures and Epilepsy?

A seizure can be defined as a period of involuntary muscular activity and/or a change in mental awareness that is caused by a burst of uncontrollable electrical activity within the brain. Epilepsy is simply the name we give to conditions that cause recurring seizures. What parts of a cat’s brain are affected by the abnormal electrical activity determines the exact symptoms you might see with seizures.

Signs and Symptoms of Cat Seizures

If just a small part of the brain is affected by a burst of electrical activity, cats will have what is called a partial or focal seizure. In these cases, cats often display localized unusual motions or behaviors such as lip smacking or a leg that kicks out repeatedly. Mentally, cats may seem completely normal and aware of their surroundings or a bit “out of it.”

On the other hand, cats experience generalized seizures when most or all of their brain is affected by uncontrollable electrical activity. There are several types of generalized seizures in cats, but the most common form is called a tonic-clonic seizure.

Appearance of a tonic-clonic seizure

• Cats are completely unaware of their surroundings.
• They fall over, become stiff, and experience twitching, shaking, drooling, limb-paddling, and other unusual movements involving most of the body.
• They may vocalize and urinate or defecate.

Before a cat has a seizure, they may go through a pre-ictal phase (also called an aura) when they behave in strange ways. People who have seizures often experience strange sights, smells, and other phenomena before the seizure, and it’s likely that cats do too. After a seizure, cats may experience a post-ictal phase during which they are tired, lethargic, restless, or disoriented. Pre- and post-ictal phases tend to be more noticeable when associated with severe seizures.

What to Do if Your Cat Has a Seizure

Now that you know what cat seizures look like, it’s time to talk about what you should (and should not) do if you think your cat is having a seizure.

First, try to remain calm. Most seizures last for only a minute or two and are not dangerous in and of themselves. Make sure your cat is in a safe spot where they can’t fall or knock anything over. You can lay them down on a soft surface like a blanket, towel, or coat, but do not put anything in their mouths as this can lead to choking.

If this is your cat’s first seizure, call your veterinarian for advice. They will likely want to see your cat to look for an underlying cause. Cats who have experienced a seizure that lasted longer than 5 minutes or who have had more than 2 seizures in 24 hours should be examined by a veterinarian right away. Otherwise, it’s generally fine to schedule an appointment at your earliest convenience.

If your cat has a history of seizures, you and your veterinarian likely have a plan in place for what types of seizures require immediate veterinary care and which can be managed at home.

Diagnosing the Cause of Cat Seizures

Cat seizures have many causes. Basically, anything that adversely affects the structure or function of certain parts of the brain can lead to a seizure. Possibilities include:

• Traumatic brain injuries
• Brain tumors
• Infection or inflammation within the brain
• Exposure to some toxins
• Congenital disorders affecting the brain
• Low blood sugar levels
• Metabolic changes such as those caused by liver or kidney disease
• Triggering stimuli like flashing lights, stress, excitement, or loud sounds

The diagnostic process for seizures in cats starts with a complete health history and a thorough physical and neurologic exam. Next, veterinarians will usually run some lab work that may include a blood chemistry panel, complete blood count, urinalysis, fecal examination, and tests for infectious diseases like feline leukemia (FeLV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), toxoplasmosis, and cryptococcosis. Spinal fluid analysis, brain imaging using an MRI or CT scan, or electroencephalography (measuring electrical activity in the brain) can also help veterinarians reach a diagnosis.

When no underlying cause for a cat’s seizures can be identified, the veterinarian will probably diagnose them with idiopathic epilepsy, which essentially means that a cat has recurrent seizures with no evident triggering reason behind them. Idiopathic epilepsy is quite rare in cats.

Treatment for Seizures in Cats

Whenever possible, treatment for cat seizures should be aimed at their underlying cause. For example, a kitten with low blood sugar levels may stop having seizures if they eat more frequently. Veterinarians can prescribe medications for infections and inflammation, and surgery may be an option for brain tumors. If treating the cause of a cat’s seizures isn’t possible or fully effective or the cat has been diagnosed with idiopathic epilepsy, anticonvulsant medications can help.

But anticonvulsant medications aren’t always necessary. Cat seizures that are short and don’t occur frequently aren’t dangerous, and their effect on a cat’s quality of life is minimal. However, if any of the following are true, treatment with anticonvulsants to reduce the severity and frequency of seizures would probably be beneficial:

• The seizures happen more frequently than once a month or so
• The seizures last longer than five minutes
• The seizures occur in clusters with little time to recover in between
• The cat has had to be hospitalized for seizures

Veterinarians can choose from several different medications when treating seizures in cats. Phenobarbital is a common first-line choice, but zonisamide, levetiracetam, and clonazepam are good options if phenobarbital doesn’t do a good enough job. Most cats don’t have serious side effects from anticonvulsants like these.

Cats who have recurrent seizures and are on medication to help control them need to be seen regularly by a veterinarian for continued monitoring. Oftentimes, a cat’s seizures will worsen over time, and their medications will need to be adjusted so they can continue to live their best life.

The post Seizures and Epilepsy in Cats appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

How to Treat Bee and Wasp Stings in Dogs

1. Bee and wasp stings are painful, so even the most mild-mannered dog may bite. When in doubt, place a temporary muzzle on your dog before attempting any of the following.
2. Gently part your dog’s fur and look for the stinger. If you can find it, carefully remove it with tweezers or use a credit card or similar object to scrape it out of the skin.
3. Apply a cool compress to the area to reduce swelling and pain. Ice wrapped in a towel works well.
4. Mix some baking soda with a little water and apply the paste to the site.
5. Monitor your dog closely for signs of an allergic reaction — hives, facial swelling, weakness, vomiting, diarrhea, itching, drooling, pale or blue mucous membranes, difficulty breathing, seizures, or collapse.
6. Call your veterinarian if you’re concerned about your dog’s well-being. The doctor may recommend an appropriate dose of an oral antihistamine or tell you that you should bring your dog to the veterinary clinic.

What does a bee sting look like on a dog?

Sometimes it’s obvious when a dog has been stung by a bee or wasp, but if you’re unsure, part your dog’s fur so you can get a good look at their skin. The area around a bee sting will usually be red and swollen. You may see a stinger embedded in the skin or a small puncture wound at the center. Bee stings can be painful and itchy for dogs. All of these signs usually resolve within 12-24 hours.

How to remove a bee stinger from a dog?

If you find a stinger stuck in your dog’s skin, removing it will speed up the healing process. Either scrape it out of your dog’s skin with the edge of a credit card (or something similar) or use tweezers to remove the stinger. If necessary, you can fashion a temporary muzzle for your dog using a long piece of gauze or a leash.

Be careful if your dog has been stung in an especially sensitive area like inside the mouth or around the eyes and nose. Call your veterinarian for advice if you are worried that you won’t be able to safely remove the stinger.

When to seek medical attention

Most dogs recover uneventfully from bee and wasp stings, but serious reactions are possible. A dangerous allergic reaction called anaphylaxis is rare but becomes more likely if a dog has had severe reactions to bee stings in the past. Signs of anaphylaxis develop within minutes of a sting and include:

• Weakness
• Hives
• A swollen face
• Itching
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Difficulty breathing
• Pale or blue mucous membranes
• Seizures
• Collapse
• Sudden death

Dogs who are not allergic to bee stings can develop similar symptoms if they are stung by massive numbers of bees. A good rule of thumb for determining if a dog might be at risk is approximately 9-10 bee or wasp stings per pound of body weight.

Delayed responses to bee and wasp stings are rare but possible. For example, dogs can develop delayed allergic reactions, organ damage, and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia or thrombocytopenia in the 3 to 14 days following bee and wasp stings. Watch your dog closely for two weeks after they are stung and call your veterinarian if notice any worrisome symptoms.

FAQs

What can you give a dog for a swollen bee sting?

Remove the stinger if it is present and apply an ice pack to the area for 5 minutes or so. Then, make a paste of baking soda and water and put it on the affected skin. Repeat in a couple of hours if necessary.

Call your veterinarian for advice if you think your dog needs an antihistamine like Benadryl (diphenhydramine) for a bee or wasp sting. Most dogs do not need to take an antihistamine after being stung by a bee or wasp. If your dog is showing signs of an allergic reaction, the veterinarian may recommend that you give Benadryl (diphenhydramine), but you should also bring your dog to the clinic for an exam and possible further treatment.

Can dogs get sick from bee stings if left untreated?

Most dogs do not get sick from bee stings even if they are untreated. Removing the stinger and applying a cold compress and a paste made from baking soda and water can relieve discomfort and speed up the healing process. Monitor your dog for signs of an allergic or other serious reaction and call your veterinarian for advice if you notice any worrisome symptoms.

How long after a bee sting will a dog have a reaction?

Anaphylaxis (a type of severe allergic reaction) generally occurs within minutes of a bee sting. Delayed reactions are possible in the 3-14 days after a bee or wasp stings, but they are very rare.

How long does it take for a dog to recover from a bee or wasp sting?

As long as a dog doesn’t have a severe reaction to a bee or wasp sting, they should be back to normal within 12-24 hours. The site of the sting may still be a little red and itchy, but they shouldn’t have any other symptoms.

What do vets do for bee stings?

When a dog has been stung by a bee, a veterinarian can remove the stinger and treat the site of the sting with topical medications to ease discomfort. If necessary, they can also give the dog an injection of diphenhydramine or a corticosteroid to reduce itching, swelling, redness, and pain.

Veterinary attention is essential if a dog is having an allergic reaction to a bee or wasp sting. In these cases, dogs may require treatment with diphenhydramine, epinephrine, corticosteroids, intravenous fluids, oxygen, and more. Dogs who have had an anaphylactic reaction will also need to be hospitalized for close monitoring and support.

The post How to Treat Bee and Wasp Stings in Dogs appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

What to Do if Your Dog is Experiencing Shock

1. Get help from anyone who might be nearby. You can proceed by yourself if you have to, but having at least two people involved in a dog’s care is better.
2. Call a vet immediately. If your regular veterinarian isn’t open or nearby, call a vet that you can get to quickly. They can talk you through helping your dog based on the specifics of the case. They will also want to prepare for your dog’s arrival at the clinic.
3. Stop active bleeding by using a cloth to put pressure on wounds. Tourniquets should only be used as a last resort and kept as loose as possible.
4. Follow the ABCs of CPR. Check your dog’s Airway and clear it if it is blocked. Check your dog’s Breathing and provide supplemental breaths if they’re not breathing. Check your dog’s Cardiac Function and perform chest compressions if you can’t feel a pulse or heartbeat.
5. Make a stretcher by sliding a blanket, ironing board, sheet of plywood, or something similar under your dog. Do NOT move your dog more than necessary as this can worsen their condition.
6. Cover your dog with a blanket, coat, or anything else to keep them warm.
7. Get to the vet as quickly (and safely!) as possible. Keep your dog on the stretcher to minimize their movement.

The Different Types of Shock in Dogs

Shock can be brought about by any condition that reduces the ability of cells to use oxygen and produce energy to a degree that leads to tissue and organ damage. The types and causes of shock in dogs can be broken down into several categories.

Circulatory Shock

When a dog’s heart and circulatory system can’t adequately move blood around their body, their tissues become starved of oxygen, leading to shock. Circulatory shock is the most common type of shock in dogs and can be further divided into three types:

Hypovolemic Shock

Profuse bleeding, movement of a lot of fluid out of the circulatory system, or severe dehydration will drastically reduce the volume of blood in a dog’s body.

Cardiogenic Shock

Poor heart function (due to heart failure or arrhythmias, for example) will lead to a lack of oxygen delivery to cells and cardiogenic shock.

Distributive Shock

Anything that causes blood vessels to dilate excessively makes it hard for the heart to move blood throughout the body. Severe allergic reactions can lead to anaphylactic shock, and severe infections can result in septic shock, both of which are forms of distributive shock.

Hypoxic Shock

Disease or injury to the respiratory system can limit the ability of a dog’s lungs to transfer oxygen into the bloodstream. For example, dogs who are choking or have severe pneumonia may develop extremely low blood oxygen levels and go into hypoxic shock. Dogs also need enough healthy red blood cells to carry blood from the lungs to the rest of the body. Severe anemia or conditions that result in red blood cell abnormalities can also lead to hypoxic shock.

Metabolic Shock

Poisonings (cyanide, for example) or health problems like very low blood sugar levels can adversely affect the ability of cells to use oxygen and produce energy leading to metabolic shock.

It’s important to remember that dogs may suffer from multiple types of shock at the same time. For example, a dog with parvovirus might be severely dehydrated and have a bacterial infection in their bloodstream. They could develop both hypovolemic and septic (distributive) shock.

How to Recognize Shock in Dogs

Dogs with most types of shock have similar symptoms. However, all dogs won’t show every one of the following signs of shock, especially early on.

• Pale or even blue mucous membranes. They may be dark red in cases of distributive shock.
• Skin that is cool to the touch, especially around the ears, tail, and paws
• Confusion
• Weakness
• Rapid heartbeat and breathing rate
• Vomiting
• Shivering

As a dog’s condition worsens, their heartbeat and breathing rate can slow and they may slip into a coma.

How Do Veterinarians Treat Shock in Dogs?

It’s absolutely critical to get dogs who are showing signs of shock to a veterinarian as quickly as possible. The veterinarian will immediately try to stabilize the dog’s condition once they arrive. This typically involves:

• Giving the dog supplemental oxygen to improve oxygen delivery to cells
• Placing an intravenous (IV) catheter
• Rapidly giving the dog IV fluids to maintain their blood pressure.
• Medications can also be given to improve cardiovascular function.

Next, treatment starts to focus on the underlying cause of a dog’s shock and on any secondary problems that may develop. For example,

• Dogs with severe anemia or blood loss may need a blood transfusion.
• Dogs who are in septic shock often require intravenous antibiotics.
• Anaphylaxis can be treated with diphenhydramine, corticosteroids, epinephrine, and other medications based on a dog’s specific needs.
• Heart failure and arrhythmias may respond to medications or other types of interventions.
• Shock can lead to gastrointestinal ulcers that require treatment with medications to heal.

Dogs who are in shock or are recovering from being in shock need to be closely monitored because their condition can change quickly. Physical examinations, labwork, blood pressure monitoring, and electrocardiograms may need to be repeated frequently so problems can be identified and treated before they become severe.

Recovering from Shock

With rapid veterinary attention, dogs can recover from shock, but their long-term prognosis depends on how quickly it is treated and its underlying cause. If the underlying problem can be resolved or successfully managed, dogs can go on to enjoy long and happy lives. On the other hand, severe shock is often fatal, particularly if veterinary treatment is delayed.

The quicker you get to a veterinarian the better. Dogs can go from showing no signs of shock to being in big trouble very quickly. Don’t delay — it’s better to err on the side of caution than to always wonder what might have been.

The post How to Treat Shock in Dogs appeared first on Pet Care Blog – Dog and Cat Health Advice and More | Healthy Paws.

1. Partner with your veterinarian

You know your pet best! When you combine your expertise with your veterinarian’s medical knowledge, your dog or cat can only benefit. Most pet parents quickly reach out to their veterinarian when their fur friend is sick or injured, but don’t overlook the importance of preventive care.

Young puppies and kittens generally need to see the vet every three to four weeks for a total of three to four visits to receive their initial set of vaccines and boosters, dewormings, and to monitor their growth and development. Adults in the prime of their lives usually require annual wellness visits, but once they reach their senior years, twice-yearly checkups are beneficial so that problems associated with old age can be identified and treated as quickly as possible. Wellness visits can include:

• Physical examination
• Vaccinations or vaccination titers
• Testing for heartworms, feline leukemia virus, and feline immunodeficiency virus
• Discussing appropriate heartworm, flea, and tick prevention
• Fecal exams and/or deworming
• Helping with spay and neuter decisions
• Microchipping
• Routine lab tests to check organ function, blood cell counts, and more
• Dental cleanings
• Providing pet care advice and answering any questions you might have

2. Prioritize nutrition and exercise

Combining good nutrition with appropriate exercise is arguably the most important thing you can do every day to keep your pet healthy and happy. Feed a nutritionally complete and balanced, age-appropriate food. Commercial diets should be labeled with an AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) statement of nutritional adequacy. Work with a veterinary nutritionist if you elect to feed a home-prepared diet. Most recipes available online or in books do not provide balanced nutrition for dogs and cats.

But don’t feed too much! Well over half of dogs and cats are overweight, which puts pets at increased risk for many serious diseases. Research has shown that pets who are slim live longer and healthier lives.

Pets also need to exercise every day to keep their bodies strong and to prevent boredom. Spend some quality time with your cat or dog at least once a day. Take your dog for a walk and find some other activities that you and your pet can enjoy together. Watch for signs of potential health problems, like limping or tiring easily.

3. Grooming and dental care

Specific breeds have different needs when it comes to grooming—think a Maltese versus a Doberman or a Persian versus a Siamese, but some basic recommendations do still apply:

• Most pets have some degree of dental disease by the time they are three years old. Brush your pet’s teeth daily with a soft-bristle toothbrush and pet-friendly toothpaste. If this isn’t possible, consider using alternative dental care products that have been approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council.
• Brush your pet’s coat at least weekly to remove shed fur. Long-haired pets may need more frequent brushing to prevent tangles and mats. Most pets love to be brushed gently, so this is an excellent bonding opportunity and a good chance to check for fleas, ticks, skin problems, and new lumps or bumps.
• Healthy pets may only need to be bathed when they get dirty or start to smell, but more frequent baths can be an important part of managing allergies or treating skin problems.
• Look in your pet’s ears weekly for excessive dirt and wax and clean them if needed. Seek medical attention if you see signs of infection like redness or discharge.
• Check your pet’s nails monthly and trim them when they’re too long.
• Pets with long hair or other special grooming needs often benefit from seeing a professional groomer every six to eight weeks.

4. Behavior

Socialization is the best way to prevent the behavioral problems that often lead owners to relinquish dogs and cats to animal shelters. Expose your pet to as many new, positive situations as possible, particularly when they are young. Also, make sure your pet gets enough physical and mental exercise to prevent them from acting out due to pent-up energy and boredom.

Training is important too. Teaching your pet (yes, cats also!) tricks and basic commands like “come,” “stay,” and “drop it” serves multiple purposes:

• Keeping pets safe in potentially dangerous situations
• Providing much needed mental stimulation and physical exercise
• Improved bonds between pets and their people

5. Consider pet insurance

Despite our best efforts, most pets do eventually develop illnesses or injuries that require expensive veterinary treatments. Maybe you have the ability to pay for whatever your pet might need right now, but if not, it’s time to consider pet insurance. Policies are available to fit most budgets, and the peace of mind that comes with knowing you can provide the care your pet needs is truly priceless.

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